Review: The Disputed Roots of the Cuban Sandwich
It's Miami vs. Tampa in the Florida sandwich wars.

Even though the Cuban sandwich is essentially just a fancy ham, pork, and cheese sandwich, the controversy over its origin is piping hot. In the late 19th century, the sandwich was a lunchtime staple of Cuban cigar factory workers. So it's no surprise that Tampa, nicknamed Cigar City, claims to have put the Cuban sandwich on the map (in America, at least). The sandwich itself was not mentioned in any U.S. records until 1906, in The Tampa Tribune.
But the Cuban-American haven of Miami is unwilling to concede the fight, claiming that Tampa's Cuban sandwich is not authentic. The Miami preparation of the sandwich is more traditional, while Tampa's includes salami—an Italian meat. This is explained by the droves of Italians who moved to Cuban-dominated communities in Central Florida after the lynchings of Italian-Americans in New Orleans throughout the 1890s.
The evolution of the Cuban sandwich exemplifies how Florida's historical embrace of immigrants has created new delicacies we can all enjoy together.
Editor's Note: As of February 29, 2024, commenting privileges on reason.com posts are limited to Reason Plus subscribers. Past commenters are grandfathered in for a temporary period. Subscribe here to preserve your ability to comment. Your Reason Plus subscription also gives you an ad-free version of reason.com, along with full access to the digital edition and archives of Reason magazine. We request that comments be civil and on-topic. We do not moderate or assume any responsibility for comments, which are owned by the readers who post them. Comments do not represent the views of reason.com or Reason Foundation. We reserve the right to delete any comment and ban commenters for any reason at any time. Comments may only be edited within 5 minutes of posting. Report abuses.
Please
to post comments
There are still people who have never heard of a Cuban sandwich.
Who could be so ignorant?
And "I was There At Sarc's Last Stand!"
🙂
😉
And all you got was a lousy t-shirt?
Was it a food stand?
All I got was a lousy sandwich.
Florida's best dish was invented by a Frenchman in New Orleans, and it's best food bar none is the right arm of a stone crab.
Oh, will you look at that, an article tailor-made for a certain commenter here who didn't know what a Cuban sandwich was. If only I could remember his name?
This proves that the minions at Reason read the comments.
All we know is that Maine didn't create this sandwich nor import it there until a year or two ago. It was so pernicious that the governor of Maine banned even talk of the Cuban sandwich until that point.
The Maine secretary of state banned the Cuban sammich from appearing on election ballots due to her feelings that the sammich had engaged in insurrection.
Why doubt her? Sandwiches are a tool of oppression, and Cubans--at least the ones in the US--are icky conservatives who defied their rightful dreamy rulers at home.
The Anglo creation of what AIDS Skrillex would call The Fuckin' A White Male Earl of Sammich!
🙂
😉
How’s the reaction there on your sos’s decision? (The president one, not the sandwich one)
I would guess the maine takeaway is that saving democracy trumps practicing democracy.
In the 1860 election, Lincoln in effect did not appear on the ballots of ten pro slavery, Democratic Party stronghold states. Bellows is just circling back to her party’s roots.
Abe was reported to have said: "Help me, Spock!"
🙂
😉
Star Trek Savage Curtain--The Help Me Spock Show (1988)
https://youtu.be/UD3HwzZnPK4?si=GT2TRceHAmuRNMyb
The disputed existence of the Cuban sandwich.
I never had one with salami.
You've never been to Ybor City?
My goodness, is Florida the only state in the Union?
Define "union".
And for bonus points, define "democracy".
The fifty centers here cannot define “woman”.
https://reason.com/issue/january-2024/
January issue magazine theme.
You must have missed Reason reprinting Steven Greenhut's hundreds of articles about California.
after the lynchings of Italian-Americans in New Orleans throughout the 1890s.
What color was their skin?
Greasy.
Aye! Luigi bring-a you pizza! Why you make-a the fun?
https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/why-mafia-isnt-an-aesthetic-i-cooka-da-pizza
I cooka da pizza
I'm sensing reparations are due.
Swarthy.
Eggplant.
Cuban sandwich? Never heard of it.
while Tampa's includes salami
FFS, get a real debate like whether it's supposed to be a layer of roasted whole tomato sauce over a half-inch or more of cheese in a crispy crust or if it's supposed to be an overpriced piece of greasy cardboard with a thin layer of near-ketchup and a thin layer of burnt cheese.
Coal fired NY style is my favorite type of Cuban Sandwich. Even if it's made by Puerto Ricans.
But then what's a Puerto Rican Sandwich?
Something you would need to ask ENB about, probably.
I'll try and summon Mike by saying ENB probably knows the Rule 34 Sammich!
🙂
😉
Jokes on you, I’ve actually made a Cuban pizza. It was amazing.
Added pineapple right?
Nope, pickles!
Don’t let Poppie catch you putting cucumbers on a pizza, pickled or otherwise.
I see you've tried English pizza...
Since even the article fails to explain or define what a Cuban Sandwich is, here it is:
Start with Cuban Bread, a 3 foot long thin roll with a moderately firm crust and plenty of holes in the bread. La Segunda Bakery in Tampa is famous for making the authentic Cuban Bread used in a Cuban Sandwich for over 100 years. The bread is made with lard and a certain process, so it is not easy to reproduce at home.
Cut the bread into about 1 foot pieces. Slice in half to separate the top and bottom. Then layer on ham and pulled or sliced pork, add salami in Tampa but omit it in Miami, then Swiss cheese, dill pickle slices and yellow mustard. Then the sandwich, with the top bread on, is PRESSED hot and flat. The traditional method is to use a foil-covered brick on a flat-top grill. The crust must get crunchy, and the cheese melted; it should be about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick after pressing.
Then cut it into long, thin triangles by cutting the sandwich diagonally.
I live in Tampa Bay, and we've been making our own home version for many years. I prefer to use pulled pork, slow cooked for about 20 hours. We use bread from La Segunda Bakery to keep it authentic. Instead of a flat-top, we do the press with a Cuisinart Griddler, which can do the hot press on top and bottom at the same time.
An authentic Cuban Sandwich does not use Mayo or other condiments. The story told in Tampa is that Cuban immigrants working in the Cigar factories wanted food which could be kept without refrigeration for their lunches -- which is why mayo should not be used. The pressing helped reduce the thickness, allowing for easier storage at the worker's workplace.
See, Sarcasmic, this is a good explanation of a Cuban sandwich. They're quite tasty when done this way too. 🙂
I thought the workers used the irons they ironed the tobacco leaves with to press the sandwiches.
The article wasn't about the sandwich. It was about why a sandwich that's OK at best means we should have open borders.
Did a cuban sandwich kill Mama Cass?
Maybe Mama Cass-tro.
Pobre Justino.
I once lived in Miami and a friend, born in Cuba, told me the sandwich originated in Cuba and is also called a Midnight Sandwich.
I like them with or without salami. There are places around here (SW Michigan) that have Cubans on the menu, but they all fall short. It's the bread and the pork. They just aren't the same here. Putting cheese, pickles, non-Cuban pork, and ham on non-Cuban bread is NOT a Cuban! I lived in and around Tampa for over 30 years, so I know a bit about the cuisine there.
If I were a billionaire, I'd dispatch my private jet to Tampa to pick up a couple of them. Alas....
"The evolution of the Cuban sandwich exemplifies how Florida's historical embrace of immigrants has created new delicacies we can all enjoy together." This is exactly the attitude of a leftist friend of mine. More Mexicans = more Mexican food; what's not to like? As though immigrants only bring cuisine and not attitudes about government and society and human rights that might ultimately undermine the libertarian ideals that this publication supports.
It was invented in New Jersey. And you have to use Taylor Ham.
The Cuban sandwich began as a hot dog with relish forgotten in the pocket of a guayabera sent to be starched and pressed at a Chinese Laundry.
And there we have it - the retort of the inarticulate...
What am I reading? This is not a review. It notes a dispute between Tampa and Miami with zero point zero context.
Florida, it seems, is the center of the universe…(chuckling)
Forget Tampa vs. Miami. The absolute best, most authentic Cuban sandwich does not come from either Tampa or Miami – it’s made in West New York, NJ, at a restaurant known as La Pola. I suggest the authors come up to NJ and give this sandwich a try.