Staff Reviews

Revolting Food Revolution

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If there's one thing more nauseating than Michelle Obama replacing candy with vegetables at the White House Easter Egg Roll, it's celebrity chef Jamie Oliver hectoring the residents of America's fattest city, Huntington, West Virginia, into eating better. Your eating habits, the Englishman who rose to prominence as "The Naked Chef" tells an obese parent in a typical scene, "are going to kill your children!"

Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution airs on ABC Friday evenings and can be found at ABC.com. Each episode is chock full, not simply of basic nutritional truisms (easy on the sweets, hurrah for fresh veggies) but the sort of Manichean bullying that attends contemporary discussions of food and fatness. "You gotta be afraid of me or come with me," Oliver tells a recalcitrant radio host.

The show brilliantly reveals the nanny mindset as only a pro-nanny show could, ignoring the range of safe choices people can make without privileging health above pleasure always.