The Truffle Trifle

Wine Spectator speculates that stuffy, wildly expensive French dining is on its way out as diners' notions of what makes a good meal expand beyond simple opulence. That and rampant culture-melding has chefs and their patrons more concerned about whether a dish is neat, different, and yummy than if it conforms to some imagined ideal of authenticity.

Comments

[Brad S]

It doesn't take a genius (not that the writers at Wine Spectator will ever be mistaken as such) to figure this one. I'll take an unauthentic meal that tastes good over an authentic meal that tastes bad any day of the week, regardless of the ethnic origin of the food.

[Sheri]

Less culture-melding would be an improvement as well, alleviating some post-dinner indigestion.

[Mike]

There's an Indian restaurant here in Redmond that serves chicken tikka linguine. 'Spretty good.

[SY]

The sad news is that France is no longer the epicenter of cuisine. It's a museum, fun to visit and interesting in a historical sense, but no longer the creative center it was in centuries past. Places like Lutece honor a great tradition, but aren't inspiring the next generation of chefs- including France's young chefs.

The new centers are in Spain (El Bulli!), in California (French Laundry, Slanted Door), not France or the Old New York that has no regional cuisine of its own, but must borrow from abroad. And the food from these Spanish, American, Vietnamese, and Italian rising stars is what will drive cuisine in the next century.

[Warren]

I still consider French cuisine to be top fare. Taste, presentation, ambiance, service(!), all are impotent. But some of the things mentioned in the article are just silly, offering a selection of pens to sign the bill with, kitchen staff of 30 to serve 70, etc. I don't mind paying for quality, but never for pretence.

[joe]

They're called "freedom fungus," you terrorist loving wussies.

[Brian]

Joe-LOL!

[nm156]

French cuisine is the triumph of style over substance. Sorry, but if I want art I'll visit a gallery.

[cdunlea]

The best aspect of French cuisine is not the dishes themselves (meat/fat-heavy, smothered in cream sauce and salt) but the general level of preparation and care, the pride really, of food. I've noticed that when I travel anywhere in Quebec the food is really good, even at their versions of Applebees (St-Hubert, for example). The steak tastes better than at Mortons; the pork and chicken are juicy and succulent; even vegetables, the real test of a restaurant, are cooked and seasoned perfectly. And, of course, costing about two-thirds of what you pay here. You find this pride there, but not in the rest of Canada. Must be the Frenchness of the place.

[joe]

Thanks Brian. I stole it.

[s.m. koppelman]

In next month's issue: Wine Spectator speculates that in order to attract new readers, they should run articles that buck the stereotype of the oenophile as a retired auto executive whose notion of fine eatin' hasn't changed since 1966.

Quick. Somebody tell the owners of all those suburban pan-Mediterranean bistros, Southwestern fusion trattorias and Thai restaurants that they can serve good wine now. I'll bet they didn't know.

[McClernand]

I'm not a fan of the French, but there's nothing like their food.

When I went to Paris, even the most mundane stuff was unbelievable! Walking to the Louvre, i was starving so I go a "hot-dog-du-fromage" which I thought was crappy American junk. It was French junk but could be haute-cuisine here! An open faced hot dog topped with melted gruyere...un believable. Ham and cheese sandwiches that could be had near all the tourist spots where the waiters really hate you were so goog that I cried. I wondered aloud why there WAS a McDonald's as the French say...

If you really want great simple food, go Sushi...we have all the supermarkets here in Mass sell it and it's run by a Japanese company that clearly takes "honor" to heart to trot out a stereotype...unbelievable stuff. Best is is that you drink sake with it which is cheap and good with anything. It's good cold, room temp or warm. You can drink it with food or without. Japan is my new favorite food culture.

[Jayson Gilligan]

I'm happy the French are feeling it in the tourism and export areas.

In Australia, you not only get an ally, but also mouth watering Shiraz and Shiraz/Cabernet blends.

France's #1 purpose now is Lance Armstrong's stage: To set the Tour de France record of six wins and shame the best Europe has to offer.

[dhex]

doesn't anthropomorphizing entire nations and continents get weary after a while?

[nm156]

French cuisine has sucked for years, but it'll never be as bad as English cooking (ugh!). Now their wine on the other hand . . .mmmmmmmm.

[Jean Bart]

Yeah, that's why when I visit French restaurants in NYC and DC they are always packed. The death of French cuisine has been a recurrent theme since the 1960s. We'll see. 🙂

[PLC]

And when I visit McDonalds, it is always packed as well....

And this might just be the funniest thing I've read on Reason: "I still consider French cuisine to be top fare. Taste, presentation, ambiance, service(!), all are impotent." HA!