Katherine Mangu-Ward | February 4, 2009
New York magazine got a bunch of fancy restaurateurs
talking about (and mostly ripping on) the "obesity tax" on non-diet
soda about to come crashing down on their heads: Half fiscal
health measure, half physical health measure, the 18 percent tax is
supposed to slim the population and fatten the state budget.
Gabrielle Hamilton, the chef and owner of the ultra-hot restaurant Prune had the best reply:
I question the idea of legislating or taxing the “symptom” and not addressing the root problem. A well-timed ice-cold Coca-Cola is one of life’s greatest taste and sensory experiences: the way it makes your eyes sting and tear up, and the back of your throat gets that chalky moment as good or better even than some of the highest tannins in a big red wine, and then the full sugar and caffeine rush that completely cures what ails you. I’m not saying every day and I’m not saying three a day. I mean one perfectly placed Coke in your week.
Hamilton proposed taxing restaurants that serve small plates and have waiters who call customers "dude." Jim Lahey, owner of the Sullivan St Bakery, Co.: "I would impose a tax on any diner who asks that their meal be deconstructed (pasta or pizza with sauce on the side, salad without dressing)." David Lynch of the John Dory: "I’d tax apple-tinis, espresso-tinis, and all other non-martini martinis. And any cappuccinos ordered for anything but breakfast." Drew Nieporent of Corton and Nobu: "Tax people who make reservations in restaurants and don’t show up or call to cancel."
They're all kidding, of course, but jokes like these make me even more nervous about sin taxes. Some of the chefs come off a bit snobby—so what if I want a cappuccino after lunch?—and you get the feeling that if they woke up one morning with the power to tax (as Paterson essentially did) they might actually give some of these proposals a second look. A few of these ideas wouldn't be much more absurd than an 18 percent tax on full-sugar soda.
UPDATE: Anthony Bourdain wasn't included in the forum, but everyone knows he likes coke.
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ultra-hot restaurant Prune
Are you kidding? I imagine a diner where septuagenarians go to
induce a bowel movement.
"I would impose a tax on any diner who asks that their meal
be deconstructed (pasta or pizza with sauce on the side, salad
without dressing)."
Why should I have to pay because you feel the need to drown your
crappy food in whatever sweet syrup you're calling
sauce/dressing?
NY Chefs Valiantly Defend Full-Sugar Coke
To echo Pro Lib, the chefs may actually be defending
full-corn-syrup Coca-Cola.
The problem is not that you want to put espresso sauce in your
vanilla vodka; the problem is that you're calling it a
martini!
They should just call it something accurate. They need a name for
the whole class of vodka based cocktails instead of poaching the
name of another drink.
Foodies can make anything sound ridiculous. Coke and all that other crap is carbonated sugar water, not a fucking full-on sensory orgasm.
They need a name for the whole class of vodka based
cocktails instead of poaching the name of another drink.
Whale snot.
They're all kidding, of course, but jokes like these make me
even more nervous
These are the kinds of folks who should die in an Ayn Rand-like
tunnel disaster. Most of them probably support seat belt laws and
billion-dollar tobacco settlements.
"I'd tax apple-tinis, espresso-tinis, and all other
non-martini martinis. And any cappuccinos ordered for anything but
breakfast."
I don't understand why PM cappuccinos are verboten, but I'm with
you on the all non-martini tini tax. Furthermore, I'd put a 100%
tax on anyone who orders a call-brand liquor to be mixed with pop
(Jack n' coke e.g.)
"Bring sugared Coke back to America!"
Go to a Mexican grocery store, they usually have Coke with
sugar.
It really is more refreshing.
Most people cut coke with speed...
Fried sweetbreads with bacon and capers
What is it with marrow bones lately? Everyone seems to be offering
them. Not that I'm complaining, they're delicious.
I imagine the profit margins are sky high on marrow bones. I suspect that is also behind the rise in hanger/skirt steaks on menus. (I'm not complaining about either, both are yummy eats.)
Jack might be a call liquor, but it's shitty enough to drink with coke. Same with Bacardi.
Coke with sugar rules. It's much better than the corn syrup
variety. I last had it in Malaysia, though I've heard about the
Mexican alternative. I suggest that Coke keep the "Coke Classic"
brand that they are in the process of dropping and start selling
sugared coke under that label.
If Cuba is ever liberated, the sugar market may be flooded, freeing
us from the corn sweetener demons forever.
I caught a dinner guest mixing Laphroaig with a Diet Sprite. All the good liquor is put away when semi-strangers come over.
I imagine the profit margins are sky high on marrow
bones.
Sure, but profits are sky high on a lot of stuff. I think that they
are popular for novelty value, and restaurants with clientele who
will look at a menu and say "bone marrow--I've never had that
before, so I want to order it" will add it to the menu. I expect to
see more classic food that went away because of "ick" value on
menus in the trendier places in the future, like brain, tongue,
tripe, etc.
Oh, sure. There is a lot of things on a typical fancy menu that
are mostly there for dares.
Brain: Yuck*
Tongue: Delicious
Tripe: Depends, but can be very good.
*Consistency mostly, and it is almost all cholesterol.
5.5oz of pork brains has 1170% of your daily allowance.
Coke with sugar rules. It's much better than the corn syrup
variety.
I'm not even sure how many U.S. manufacturers of specialty/gourmet
sodas make cola with sugar (although Boylan appears to be one that
does); many don't offer cola flavors (although they use sugar as
their primary sweetener in what they do produce), while Sprecher apparently
uses other sweeteners in its colas (like honey).
If Cuba is ever liberated, the sugar market may be flooded,
freeing us from the corn sweetener demons forever.
Cuba ain't got shit to do with it. The sugar and corn lobbies have
the reigns of power firmly in their grasp. The tariffs and
subsidies are obscene.
"I caught a dinner guest mixing Laphroaig with a Diet
Sprite."
i'm not one for drink rules on the general, but damn.
Warren,
Free Cuba, and it will be politically impossible for the U.S. not
to allow their sugar to overwhelm our marketplace. You heard it
here first.
All this talk about sugar is making me crazy. As a distiller, cheap sugar is what I crave. The cheaper, the better. Right now, I can't do better than 58 cents/lb.
I don't get the knock on cappuccinos either, especially since almost nobody orders them anymore. They were really big in the late 90s, but now lattes seem to be bigger. Maybe what he means is that people should be ordering cafe cremes at night instead...
As a distiller, cheap sugar is what I crave.
White Lightning?
ProL, I've had haggis in Scotland and it tastes fine--you don't get
overpowered by organ meat. But my problem (with that particular
place's haggis, anyway) with it was that it had way too much fat in
it. And I like fat. But it was too much.
Jack might be a call liquor, but it's shitty enough to drink
with coke. Same with Bacardi.
That's true today. But I remember my late Uncle Wayne. Back in the
70's he got tired of pouring his JD in sugar water. So he filled an
empty Jack bottle with Seagrams just for people (mostly one guy)
who requested "Jack and Coke"
I don't get the knock on cappuccinos either, especially
since almost nobody orders them anymore.
In Italy, people do not drink them after breakfast. It's considered
weird if you do, sort of like a lot of people think it's weird if
you eat bacon and eggs for dinner or pizza for breakfast. The guy
was just being a traditionalist.
Pro Lib,
How will that work? You figure smugglers are going to to be making
night drops just outside Atlanta?
Pizza for breakfast is one of the few things that makes my miserable life bearable.
In Italy, people do not drink them after
breakfast.
Horseshit. I've been to Italy. They drink cappuccinos all day long
and into the night.
Sugarfree - right on!
Thing is, I don't appologize for the American way of eating food,
what order its eaten in, what time of day its eaten, etc. I find
that people who come here from abroad actually find that to be
endearing about us - that we are so laid back that we'll make fish
tacos, have cold pizza for breakfast, drink coffee 24 hours a day,
and walk or drive around where everyone can see you while eating
it.
This being said - I really hate food trends. I don't know if I can
take one more place offering "applewood" anything. Seriously -
enough!
Horseshit. I've been to Italy. They drink cappuccinos all
day long and into the night.
20 years ago they didn't. I ordered one and got "those crazy
Americans" reactions. They drink espresso later in the day.
Maybe things have changed (that was 20 years ago). Damn
globalization!!!
Episiarch,
Then, lad, I suppose fried haggis fritters are right out for you,
aye?
Warren,
Nah, the sugar lobby will be defeated by the Cuban-American
lobby.
"I suggest that Coke keep the "Coke Classic" brand that they are
in the process of dropping and start selling sugared coke under
that label."
Is this for real? I will seriously murder someone if Coke Classic
goes away.
Warren,
Rick Steves says you lie, you lying liar! [Runs to bedroom and
sobs like a little girl.] Okay, okay, I kid. I don't usually
drink coffee.
I've never been to Italy. I want to go, have almost gone twice, but
am cleverly defeated by fate. I will go. Yes, I will.
Nick,
Just the brand, not the drink. Coke Classic will simply be called
Coke.
Pizza for breakfast is one of the few things that makes my
miserable life bearable.
You eat Domino's, don't you. You disgust me.
Reinmoose,
Please make an exception for Apple-Smoked Bacon is you come across
it. They dry the pulp left over after cider making and smoke the
bacon with it. Delicious. Also corn-cob smoked bacon, the smokiest
damn bacon I've ever run across.
Thankfully, my gallery of frozen bacon samples survived my power
being off for 6 days. The bacon-tasting event is still on for May.
15 bacons enter, only one leaves. In my belly.
You eat Domino's, don't you.
That's it, motherfucker! I can normally absorb any amount of
insults from you, BUT THIS DAY YOU HAVE GONE TOO FAR!
That's it, motherfucker! I can normally absorb any amount of
insults from you, BUT THIS DAY YOU HAVE GONE TOO FAR!
The truth hurts, don't it, bitch?
Episiarch,
We make our own pizzas at home. Due to time constraints, we're
forced to rely on a breadmaker to start the dough, but purity is
difficult in these trying times. I'm also ashamed to admit that we
don't own a wood-fired pizza oven. But we will, oh yes, we
will.
I would, btw, never - NEVER - accuse anyone of eating Gatti's Pizza unless I had hard evidence to go on.
Gatti's actually provides you with ranch dressing for your pizza, which violates on 2 accounts!
A coworker sent me a link yesterday to quotes by
actress/writer/wit Cornelia Otis
Skinner, of whom I'd never heard before (she was BF's sister) -
she apparently said a lot of witty things, including this in
1950:
[T]he food choice of others is becoming more and more
heatedly exclusive until it may well turn into one of those forms
of bigotry against which gallant little committees are constantly
planning campaigns in the cause of justice and
decency.
Except, of course, the gallant little committees are constantly
planning campaigns of justice and decency in support of the
bigotry, not to combat it.
(Another line of hers I loved: "Women have a special corner of
their hearts for sins they have never committed.")
I pretty much only make my own pizza as well, but we have a few decent places in town. Epi, despite his potty mouth, knows this.
Nah, the sugar lobby will be defeated by the Cuban-American lobby.
Indeed. After all, our current President, while debating his
opponent, cited the terrible national security risks of being
dependent on Brazilian sugar and Brazilian sugar ethanol if we
lifted the tariff like his opponent wanted to. (OK, on sugar itself
it's not so much a tariff as a quota system and a system of
guaranteed loans whereby domestic producers can use their sugar to
secure loans at a guaranteed valuation and then forfeit the sugar
to keep the money if the price goes below that level, but it's
complicated, so I often say "tariff.")
I wouldn't expect any change to the sugar tariff any time soon.
Like ag subsidies in general, or free trade, the passion is all on
the non-libertarian side on that issue. How many people would say,
"Well, I disagree with him on Iraq, but hey, sugar in Coke!"
Breakfast food for dinner was a special treat when I was a kid - it's one of those food-as-memory/childhood nostalgia things and I kept it going. If it's storming at dinner time, we eat pancakes and eggs. My daughter loves rainy weather for that reason.
One thing about the food in Tallahassee was there was no good
pizza there. Hmm, a business opportunity perhaps?
But I love Guthrie's and Calico Jack's with all my heart.
I'm also ashamed to admit that we don't own a wood-fired
pizza oven.
My dad developed a technique where he places tiles in the oven and
preheats them before sliding the pizza on it. Works very well.
Why should I have to pay because you feel the need to drown
your crappy food in whatever sweet syrup you're calling
sauce/dressing?
Why do you eat in restaurants the serve crappy food drowned in
sweet syrup?
I caught a dinner guest mixing Laphroaig with a Diet
Sprite.
I hope you administered a sound caning. Such caddishness should not
go unpunished!
I would, btw, never - NEVER - accuse anyone of eating
Gatti's Pizza unless I had hard evidence to go on.
Gatti's apparently
offers green olives as a topping (as well as black), so it can't be
any worse than
Domino's.
Whatever happened to the test market of McDonald's pizza several years back? I can only imagine the terribleness.
Episiarch,
À la Alton Brown. He advocates the acquisition of an unglazed
quarry stone. We've got a pizza stone, which is roughly the same
thing, though overpriced.
2 cups All-purpose unbleached wheat flour
2 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
1/2 cup + 1 Tbs water (105 degrees F)
1/2 tsp yeast
Make well with flour. Put olive oil and salt into the well.
Put yeast into water; let stand for 15 minutes (until
creamy).
Slowly add water and yeast to well, pulling sides inward.
Kneed for 20 min. Place in floured bowl, cover, and let rize for 90
minutes.
Punch dough, turn over, return to covered bowl and let rise for 30
minutes. Cut dough in half, shape into two pizzas.
Top with carmelized onions, fresh rosemary and goat chese.
Bake in 550 degree F oven (or hotter) until done
Whatever happened to the test market of McDonald's pizza
several years back? I can only imagine the terribleness.
They tried this once before, in the 80s, I believe. Insane. Yet now
Subway and Dunkin' Donuts are trying it. What are they
thinking?
At least Subways have those ovens to make them in. The McD's version was microwaved. I'm not a McD's hater, but it was nasty. Now the McGriddle? That's genius.
À la Alton Brown. He advocates the acquisition of an
unglazed quarry stone.
My dad came up with this idea 25 years ago. I don't think he got it
from Brown. He experimented with different tiles until he got the
results he wanted.
Episiarch,
It's hardly an original idea with Brown. Your father is a wise and
frugal man to avoid wasting money on pizza stones (aka over-priced
tiles).
I remember (probably incorrectly) the pizza at McDonald's rolling out about the same time as fried chicken by the bucket at Hardees. My world turned upside down.
I'm not even sure how many U.S. manufacturers of
specialty/gourmet sodas make cola with sugar
Jones makes soda with cane sugar, including a cola, and it is sold
nationally at Wal-Mart and Target. It is under $3.00 for an 8-pack
of cans at Wal-Mart in Tampa. Their berry-lemonade is good
stuff.
Tofu pizza does not cook well on stones. However, if McDonald's had used tofu for the microwaved pizzas they would still be around.
I suppose it would be ironic if I were a totalitarian. I'm a Food Nazi, I suppose, but that's something else.
Warren @ 12:53:
I don't understand why PM cappuccinos are verboten, but I'm with you on the all non-martini tini tax. Furthermore, I'd put a 100% tax on anyone who orders a call-brand liquor to be mixed with pop (Jack n' coke e.g.)
If you did this, you'd make a killing off Air Force, Reserve &
ANG fighter jocks and their hangers-on.
I picked up some Bolyen's the other day and was disappointed.
I'll stick with Virgil's -- root beer, cream soda, and black
cherry.
But the Boylen's was much better than Jones, which sucks in my
opinion.
"What are they thinking?"
that people eat dominos, so anything is possible?
i've actually had a decent vegan pizza slice, all told. (at a place
called slice on the upper east side) it's not pizza per se, but
it's the best imitation of pizza i'd ever eaten. would take it over
dominos in a heartbeat.
There's a cane sugar soda called blue sky
Also in Austin, TX they sell Dr. Pepper with cane sugar
I don't know if I can take one more place offering
"applewood" anything.
[rant]
I love bourbon (Im from KY, so duh). I love beer. PLEASE FOR THE
LOVE OF ALL THAT IS GOOD STOP AGING BEER IN BOURBON BARRELS.
[/rant]
Thank you.
Back in my college days, I lived right on the edge of the delivery zone for Dominos. I got a lot of free pizzas when they were delivered 5 minutes late -- not a great pizza, but college students will eat pretty much any free food that can be found.
Jones makes soda with cane sugar, including a cola, and it
is sold nationally at Wal-Mart and Target.
I was wondering about Jones, but forgot to double-check; apparently,
they now also make a sugar-based orange cola. (However, I've
never seen more than a few of their flavors being stocked in a
store or restaurant at any one time.)
I only use cane sugar in my sweet soy tofu sushi sauces. Same with the hot and sweet variety.
But the Boylen's was much better than Jones, which sucks in
my opinion.
Jones blows. It uses artificial flavors.
i've actually had a decent vegan pizza slice, all
told
They are few and far between, but there are actually good vegan
cooks who don't seem to suffer from the hairshirt mentality that
seems to afflict many vegans.
THE URKOBOLD CANNOT ABIDE A MEATLESS MEAL; HOWEVER, THE PORN COMPANY THAT CALLS ITSELF PETA HAS MADE THE URKOBOLD HAVE A NEW RESPECT FOR THOSE CALLED VEGANS.
Veganry is the future.
God gave me cannines so I could eat meat . . .
Or Darwin says I have cannines because meat-eater have an
evolutionary advantage over you vegans . . . .
Take your pick.
Has anyone encountered a Diet Grape Soda that tasted even
slightly OK? They are hard enough to find anyway, but the few I've
found (Faygo in particular) tasted like the Gowanus Canal. (And
Faygo turned my urine bright green.)
Diet Grape Crush exists but seems to really only be in Canada (much
like Pineapple Crush.)
There's a cane sugar soda called blue sky
I also neglected to check out
Hansen's (which also owns Blue
Sky); both do offer some type of sugar-based cola.
Also in Austin, TX they sell Dr. Pepper with cane
sugar
That likely comes from Dublin Dr Pepper.
Has anyone encountered a Diet Grape Soda that tasted even
slightly OK?
All "grape" flavor in soda is artificial, right? How would that
ever taste good?
I don't care about artificial, I just want a damn Grape Crush. I tried drinking a regular one a few years ago and the hideous corn syrup gloppiness was too much to take.
kinnath -
Do you really think you need your canines to eat meat? So much of
it is premasticated these days, anyway.
>>They're all kidding, of course, but jokes like these
make me even more nervous
Just like the time you guys ran that poll of Reason contributors'
voting preferences and asked them which President they would
waterboard.
Grape soda is OK, but artificially flavored grape creamsicles? How can you argue against artificial grape in a case like that?
Do you really think you need your canines to eat meat? So
much of it is premasticated these days, anyway.
If you don't get your face down in it, what's the point?
I'm a Food Nazi, I suppose, but that's something
else.
You do certainly enjoy putting things in ovens.
I remember Maddox. He used to post stuff. Now he doesn't.
%,
Yes, baked goods and such.
I don't care about artificial, I just want a damn [Diet]
Grape Crush. I tried drinking a regular one a few years ago and the
hideous corn syrup gloppiness was too much to take.
A very quick scan of BevNet
yielded only Faygo, Crush, Slice One,
and store brands (particularly the Ahold-owned
stores' Sunpop).
If you don't get your face down in it, what's the
point?
I do admit that I like eating meat from the bone for exactly this
reason.
I see an opportunity here. Liberty Cola! All natural coke-like ingredients, with sugar instead of Karo.
Is it just me or would you also guess that the [totally
imaginary, probably not even taken from a life study] model in the
Coke ad
would be freaky-deaky in bed?
[yes it is just you-ed.]
Go to a Mexican grocery store, they usually have Coke with sugar.
Fresh Market in Altamonte Springs, Fla carries it too. I would
think their other store do too.
I bought a couple of bottles. They were good, but, I'm afraid, not
$1.99 a bottle vs fifty cents better.
I think it's mostly because I'm not really much of a soda drinker
in the first place.
I do admit that I like eating meat from the bone for exactly
this reason.
That too . . .
Thanks, EJM. I looks like Slice One is no longer being made. Maybe I'll just slink back to the occasional Diet-Rite White Grape.
Is it just me or would you also guess that the [totally
imaginary, probably not even taken from a life study] model in the
Coke ad
Not just you. I was thinking I'd rather trade places with that
teddy bear than have a coke.
Maybe I'll just slink back to the occasional Diet-Rite White
Grape.
As it turns out, Shasta does apparently
offer a Diet Grape; however, my hunch is that it would be very,
very similar to Faygo's (as both brands are
owned by National Beverage and share many of the same specialty
flavors and product names).
I also forgot that Faygo may still be offering its commemorative sugar-based sodas--including Grape.
Last year I had Mountain Dew with sugar in Romania (the first place I had seen Mountain Dew outside of the US and Canada) much better than the corn syrup version. Speaking of Europe and soda...why did Pepsi never bring Pepsi Gold to the US...that was a tasty beverage.
Last year I had Mountain Dew with sugar in Romania (the
first place I had seen Mountain Dew outside of the US and Canada)
much better than the corn syrup version.
As it turns out, there's one bottler in the U.S. that apparently
still uses sugar in Mountain Dew--North Carolina's
West Jefferson Dr Pepper (which also bottles Dr Pepper with
sugar).
Speaking of Europe and soda...why did Pepsi never bring Pepsi
Gold to the US...that was a tasty beverage.
Apparently, Pepsi Gold was designed as a limited-edition flavor
tied in with the football (soccer) and cricket World Cups--and so
wouldn't have been as marketable in the U.S. Also, it might have
been too similar to Pepsi Holiday Spice/Christmas Pepsi--which has
been sold in North America. (In both cases, see this
Wikipedia list.)
At Marc's stores here in NE Ohio, I have seen the following
Crush flavors:
Grape
Strawberry
Pineapple
Cherry
Peach
Apple
Tropical Punch
all in old-school glass bottles.
Also saw Grape and Peach Nehi right next to them. Alert David Ogden
Stiers.
In the Middle East, Coke and Pepsi (among others) are all made with
real sugar.
Also saw Grape and Peach Nehi right next to them. Alert
David Ogden Stiers.
It may be better to alert Gary Burghoff.
;)
Doh!
Don't worry: During the original run, I got Mr. Steirs
(Maj. Winchester) and William
Christopher (Fr. Mulcahy) mixed up.
In Austin, TX, my local HEB (supermarket) now carries imported
Mexican coke with sugar, I assume due to popular demand of Mexican
ex-pats longing for a taste of home, as well as hipsters like
myself longing for the taste of Real Coke, not to mention the real
deal Rum and Coke.
They probably had to wrangle with the local distributors to get an
OK on this, or (even cooler) went behind their backs. In any case,
this development is (pardon me) sweet!
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