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Who Needs Trans Fat?
In the March issue of The
Atlantic, food writer Corby Kummer investigates
how easy it will be for restaurants and bakeries to comply
with New York's trans fat ban. (The full text is
available only to subscribers.) Kummer, whose analysis is
especially interesting because he is married to Boston's
health commissioner and sympathetic to the rationale for the ban,
punctures the pretense that restaurants and food manufacturers use
trans fats for no good reason (out of sheer perversity, to judge
from the rhetoric of some activists and public health
officials). In addition to the advantages of lower cost and
longer shelf life, partially hydrogenated vegetable oil
provides flavor and texture that can be hard to
replicate without going back to animal fat. "I realized that
saying trans fats are 'totally replaceable,' as [New York City
Health Commissioner Thomas] Frieden repeatedly does...is
easier for a health official than for a product
developer," Kummer writes. He notes that big chains have
labored long and hard, trying many different combinations of
ingredients, to come up with acceptable replacements for trans fat.
He worries that mom-and-pop bakeries, lacking the
resources of Au Bon Pain, will "never be able to figure
all that out." Donuts, according to Kummer, are a special
challenge:
I saw why lard and shortening have always been best for deep frying....The resolidified fat gives the interior a texture that oil simply cannot. Yeast-raised doughnuts are less problematic, because they should remain airy. But in a cake doughnut, the right texture is as unmistakable as the firm crumble of a butter cake—which requires a fat that solidifies at room temperature. A good cake doughnut has the substance of pound cake. It won't get that from corn or canola oil.
Is the difference worth a slight increase in heart disease risk? A truly tolerant society would leave that decision to individual consumers. But we're talking about New York, which does not allow smoking among consenting adults.
TF|2.28.07 @ 5:19PM|#
Those doughnuts aren't appetizing at all, it looks like an assorted collection of different varieties of shit
Andrew|2.28.07 @ 5:21PM|#
The guy in the quote even acknowledges that it is possible to
duplicate the taste and texture - just use lard rather than crisco.
Lard is more expensive and does go bad, but it does not contain
significant quantities of trans fats. This isn't a matter of "can
we do it", it's "can we do it cheaply".
If it was cheaper for bottled water manufacturers to sell me
arsenic-laced water than water without arsenic, should we just
"leave it to individual consumers"?
stephen the goldberger|2.28.07 @ 5:23PM|#
so long as they make it clear it's arsenic laced and aren't being fraudulent.
|2.28.07 @ 5:28PM|#
"The resolidified fat gives the interior a texture that oil
simply cannot."
yuck
mediageek|2.28.07 @ 5:40PM|#
Wasn't it the CSPI who first sounded the alarm about frying things in animal-based fats and oils back in the late '80's?
Penry|2.28.07 @ 5:41PM|#
I'd pay extra for doughnuts or fries cooked in lard rather than vegetable oil. However I am unable to find them on sale. I blame it on all those bloody vegetarians.
Rhywun|2.28.07 @ 5:41PM|#
it looks like an assorted collection of different varieties
of shit
I had the exact same thought upon first seeing that picture. Only I
was going to state it a little more delicately.
mediageek|2.28.07 @ 5:42PM|#
"Those doughnuts aren't appetizing at all, it looks like an
assorted collection of different varieties of shit"
I'm told that learning good food photography is quite
difficult.
|2.28.07 @ 5:43PM|#
If it was cheaper for bottled water manufacturers to sell me
arsenic-laced water than water without arsenic, should we just
"leave it to individual consumers"?
It depends. Does the arsenic make the water taste better, and is
the bottle labeled to indicate that the water contains arsenic?
lunchstealer|2.28.07 @ 5:49PM|#
joe | February 28, 2007, 5:28pm | #
"The resolidified fat gives the interior a texture that oil simply
cannot."
yuck
You ever had a cake made with butter? You've had something with
resolidified fat.
That said, the big source of trans-fats is the 'partially'
hydrogenated oils. Fully hydrogenated oils have no trans-fats, but
are too hard for baking use - more of a parafin consistency.
Crisco's trans-fat-free shortening is a mix of this fully
hydrogenated oil and a non-hydrogenated oil like canola. I know
nothing about the baking characteristics of this, though.
Rhywun|2.28.07 @ 5:50PM|#
Aren't donuts supposed to be a sometimes-food? I mean, the reason it's funny watching Homer Simpson eat nothing but donuts is because NOBODY IN THEIR RIGHT MIND WOULD DO SUCH A THING.
|2.28.07 @ 5:54PM|#
Here's a nice lesson on the importance of choosing words well. "Resolidified fat" sounds repugnant. "Buttery" OTOH, sounds delicious.
Timothy|2.28.07 @ 5:56PM|#
Those donuts look delicious at least partly because eating them would really piss off the nanny staters.
|2.28.07 @ 5:59PM|#
Ok, Rhywun, I'll bite. How often am I allowed to eat donuts? How
often am I allowed to eat donuts made with trans fats? Am I allowed
to eat them? Can I buy my own trans fats and make my own
donuts?
How often can I eat food with MSG? How often can I eat food that's
high in fats (generally)? Am I permitted to butter my bread before
eating it? What about peanut butter -- I like to eat peanut butter
sandwiches, is that ok?
What kind of person outlaws food because he doesn't personally want
to eat it? I don't like Persian food -- too much sweet in dishes I
think should be savory. Can I outlaw it? I've read that alfredo
sauce is really bad for you. Can I outlaw that? I don't like
hollandaise, and it contains raw eggs, which means it could have
salmonella. Can we make that illegal?
(The answer, of course, is 'absolutely'. After all, we're not
allowed to have unripened raw milk cheeses.)
Antarctic Penguin|2.28.07 @ 6:03PM|#
I've never needed to use transfats on my fish or squid. I've never even needed to cook them.
lunchstealer|2.28.07 @ 6:05PM|#
No 6,
Here's a nice lesson on the importance of choosing words well.
"Resolidified fat" sounds repugnant. "Buttery" OTOH, sounds
delicious.
That's because it is. Buttery is one of the things that makes life
worth living.
By a similar note, "bacon grease" may not sound very appetizing,
but "full of bacony tasty motherfuckin' baconawesome tastiness"
sure as fuckin' does.
|2.28.07 @ 6:13PM|#
isulder,
OK, I'll bite. How often is Rhwuyn allowed to express an opinion?
Is it allowed? How about if she does it at home?
|2.28.07 @ 6:16PM|#
When you can't find any fucking lard in a MEXICAN GROCERY, it's time to slap a bitch.
|2.28.07 @ 6:21PM|#
By a similar note, "bacon grease" may not sound very
appetizing, but "full of bacony tasty motherfuckin' baconawesome
tastiness" sure as fuckin' does.
Bacon Grease is the only thing I will use to fry my eggs.....now
that's good eatin
|2.28.07 @ 6:23PM|#
I thought the doughnuts looked good. Guess I was wrong again. Sure glad I got other folks making judgments for me. My mom was right. I can't make it on my own.
|2.28.07 @ 6:23PM|#
If it was cheaper for bottled water manufacturers to sell me
arsenic-laced water than water without arsenic, should we just
"leave it to individual consumers"?
Yes, people should have the right to end their own lives at
will.
Or do you mean if it was cheaper to sell poison labeled as water,
would that be okay? That would be an inane analogy, so I will
assume you were talking about the right to die.
Antarctic Penguin|2.28.07 @ 6:37PM|#
"If it was cheaper for bottled water manufacturers to sell me
arsenic-laced water than water without arsenic, should we just
"leave it to individual consumers"?"
First of all, if the bottle was clearly labeled as having arsenic
(and thus not being pure water by any rational definition) any
consumer who would consume it would simply be practicing voluntary
Darwinism.
Second, unless the product the company was selling was "fresh, cold
liquid poison" it would not be to the advantage of Poland Springs
or Aquafina to kill off their customers. They would not do any
repeat business.
Rhywun|2.28.07 @ 6:44PM|#
Apparently my point escaped everyone. The point is: it's excessive to regulate fatty foods like donuts because it's conventional wisdom that donuts are a treat, not something to base your diet around. In other words, isildur, I don't care how many donuts you eat because you're almost certainly aware of the consequences & it's your choice. Fast food is a little different because many people do base their diet around it, but people should still be free to eat as much of it as they wish as long as it's possible for them to be aware of its nutritional value or lack thereof. I have no problem with the government ensuring that consumers can get this info, and that's where it stops.
|2.28.07 @ 6:50PM|#
Unfair, Rhywun!
I got your point:
Homer Simpson should die.
Right?
Isildur had a strange, knee-jerk reaction to your comment. I don't
think anyone else jumped on you. joe jumped to your defense, so I
guess I understand how that could upset you.
Antarctic Penguin|2.28.07 @ 6:57PM|#
"I have no problem with the government ensuring that consumers
can get this info"
The MAXIMUM role I see for government in this regard is ensuring
that if a company makes a claim that that claim is truthful. In
other words, if Aquafina lists all of the ingredients of it's
product and arsenic is not listed among them, the government would
ensure arsenic is NOT in this product. If McDonalds claims that
their French fries contain zero transfats that they ACTUALLY
contain zero transfats.
|2.28.07 @ 7:25PM|#
If it was cheaper for bottled water manufacturers to sell me
arsenic-laced water than water without arsenic, should we just
"leave it to individual consumers"?
Germany is not known for laissez-faire, but in Bad Nauheim they
give away arsenic laced water from a spring. Next
to the tap there is a small sign in German that warns of the
arsenic and urges "individual consumers" to consume no more than a
half liter of it a day. Actually, I'm pretty sure it doesn't say
"individual consumers" but you get the idea.
It tastes pretty good, too.
Not picking on the arsenic commenters but you might want to find a
better example.
|2.28.07 @ 7:27PM|#
baconawesome is a great word. I'm going to use it as the opposite of thundercunt from now on.
JD|2.28.07 @ 7:33PM|#
OK, I'll bite. How often is Rhwuyn allowed to express an opinion? Is it allowed? How about if she does it at home?
So, judges, does this count as joe winning the thread, or just some
bonus points?
Plant Imigratian Rights Suppor|2.28.07 @ 7:36PM|#
"Germany is not known for laissez-faire, but in Bad Nauheim they
give away arsenic laced water from a spring. Next to the tap there
is a small sign in German that warns of the arsenic and urges
"individual consumers" to consume no more than a half liter of it a
day. Actually, I'm pretty sure it doesn't say "individual
consumers" but you get the idea./It tastes pretty good, too. / Not
picking on the arsenic commenters but you might want to find a
better example."
Ever since I was a little kid when I saw "Romancing the Stone", I
wondered if that line was complete bull or if someone actually
COULD build up a tollerance to arsenic. Not that I would want to
try.
TrappedEastOfTheBigMuddy|2.28.07 @ 7:38PM|#
> I can see it now: a blackmarket in products made with
transfats.
The story you're looking for is
LIPIDLEGGIN'. by F. Paul Wilson
|2.28.07 @ 7:52PM|#
Sorry; I read the comment as 'Who cares about donut regulation?
You shouldn't be eating donuts all the time, anyway.'
Aside: Hey Joe, when I finally get the power to make it illegal for
other people to comment, rest assured I won't be starting with
Rhywun.
|2.28.07 @ 7:57PM|#
Bacon Grease is the only thing I will use to fry my
eggs.....now that's good eatin
I've tried it, but the eggs just never cook right when I do it.
They get burnt on the outside by the time they cook right on the
inside, and I don't get that buttery flavor I get from, well,
butter.
|2.28.07 @ 7:59PM|#
Use a mix of butter and bacon grease.
I use butter and oil together on everything I fry. Best of both
worlds for making and eating.
Mean Martin Manning|2.28.07 @ 8:15PM|#
I love trans fat. I like to drink it through a straw. Stop worrying about my arteries. They're fine.
|2.28.07 @ 8:42PM|#
Plant Imigratian Rights Supporter | February 28, 2007, 7:36pm | #
Ever since I was a little kid when I saw "Romancing the Stone", I wondered if that line was complete bull or if someone actually COULD build up a tollerance to arsenic. Not that I would want to try.
Eh??? What line would that be?
|2.28.07 @ 9:28PM|#
I just got back from having dinner with Mr. Nice Guy at TGI
Friday's. I would never eat that sort of food on any sort of
regular basis, but every now and then I just need a plate full of
grease. Right now I'm stressed about a lot of things, and so
there's just something comforting about biting into a greasy burger
and then having a brownie with ice cream.
I know that it's absolutely awful for my health, but every now and
then I just need the comfort of a greasy meal. Especially if I'm
sitting there bullshitting with a buddy. That's just plain fun.
Grotius|2.28.07 @ 9:50PM|#
This needs repeating:
"To me, life without veal stock, pork fat, sausage, organ meat,
demi-glace, or even stinky cheese is a life not worth living." -
Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential, pg. 70
Anyway, if I lived in the D.C. I'd have my ass parked at the Bistro
Bis. :)
bill|2.28.07 @ 10:47PM|#
Some of the old fogies like me might remember back in the day when McDonalds had the best fries in the world. They were cooked in beef tallow, yummy. Now they taste like crap.
Ruling Rules!|2.28.07 @ 11:20PM|#
every now and then I just need the comfort of a greasy
meal
Shouldn't we make them mandatory then, since that's the only way to
ensure people get what they need?
Gray Ghost|2.28.07 @ 11:58PM|#
(Bourdain quote from Grotius). Totally agree with the sentiment,
from the finest book ever written about the hospitality industry,
never mind professional cooking. He's overexposed on food tv, but
if you like food, you owe it to yourself to read Kitchen
Confidential. It's one of those books like Parliament of Whores or
Thank You For Smoking, that I have to keep re-buying, as people
never return them back to me.
I think Kwix is referring to the Sicilian poison scene in Princess
Bride. I don't remember any thing about poison in Romancing the
Stone, but it's been several years since I last saw it. Wonder how
it's aged?
Since I live with a vegetarian, particularly during Lent, most
stuff that needs it gets cooked with peanut oil. She's usually o.k.
with ghee, though not right now. I miss bacon fat...
I'm puzzled by a libertarian message board that wants serious drug
legalization, but is responding to calls to ban food items with
anything other than complete derision and contempt.
|3.1.07 @ 12:33AM|#
"The resolidified fat gives the interior a texture that oil
simply cannot."
yuck
You ever had a cake made with butter? You've had something with
resolidified fat.
Don't you know, that to food-nannies, butter is even *worse* than
trans fat and HFCS combined?
It's eeeevvviil.
If the food nannies had their way, our diets would be restricted to
broccoli flavored cardboard and water vapor.
|3.1.07 @ 2:49AM|#
'resolified fat'
'Yuck'
Tofu burgers
ewwwwwww!
One's man's post-piss shivers over resolified fat is another man's
epileptic fit over fake hamburger
|3.1.07 @ 9:11AM|#
Highnumber is right. Duck fat scrambled eggs are insanely good.
In Bourdain's old place, Les Halles, I had a warm goat cheese
potato salad that was dressed in duck fat. I wanted to punch my
dinner companions in the throat and take their plates away from
them. I had planned on squating under the table a stuffing potato
salad in my face until the cops came.
Anywho, every time you cook a duck keep all the fat, draining
through some cheesecloth. If you dress the duck yourself, render
all the skin of its fat. Chop it coarsely, mix it with about twice
its volume of water in a heavy pan, and boil off the water. The
skin turns brown and crispy, creating duck cracklings. They kick
bacon or salt pork lardons right in the taint.
I've heard rumors of a Chicago hot dog/sausage restaurant that
makes their french fries in duck fat on the weekend...
Timothy|3.1.07 @ 9:13AM|#
As far as I know, Hostess still uses lard in their products. Which is sweet, because I could by all the twinkies I wanted in college and my vegetarian roommate wouldn't steal them.
|3.1.07 @ 9:45AM|#
Ever since I was a little kid when I saw "Romancing the
Stone", I wondered if that line was complete bull or if someone
actually COULD build up a tollerance to arsenic. Not that I would
want to try.
I tell the tale that I heard told. Mithridates, he died old.
|3.1.07 @ 10:37AM|#
NYC has gone ban crazy...Big Brother in general crazy....banks
on every corner, sometimes taking up whole blocks crazy...luxury
condo crazy...in short, it's really really starting to suck...I can
say that because I'm from NYC, the NYC Council really needs to get
a new fricking hobby.
Personally, I'm starting to think the PTB in NYC might be trying to
get rid of the "mom and pop" shops just so that they can replace
them with banks and/or luxury condos.
Incidentally, while NY is banning trans fat, why not ban none
organic foods/ingredients as well? Who needs a gazillion pesticides
and hormones screwing up everything?
|3.1.07 @ 10:44AM|#
"But we're talking about New York, which does not allow smoking
among consenting adults."
P.S. New York does allow smoking among consenting adults. It just
doesn't allow smoking among consenting adults who are smoking among
non-smoking adults who do not consent to being exposed to second
hand smoke while in restaurants or bars.
|3.1.07 @ 11:34AM|#
trans fats are also used to replace milk in baked goods, as someone who is lactose intolerant I can only eat snacks with trans fats and even then it's hard to find ones without milk.if they ban all food with trans fat I'll have to start baking my own,and don't even get me started on how hard it is to find good recipes.
Grotius|3.1.07 @ 11:45AM|#
Meep,
Well, if they don't like smoking they shouldn't go to restaurants
and bars that offer such.
|3.1.07 @ 12:00PM|#
"Joe
I think you're full of cr...no wait, resolidified fat"
Leave me alone. I started back at the gym last week.
|3.1.07 @ 1:14PM|#
As far as the arsenic question goes, yes you can build up a tolerance. A lethal dose is 100 mg but a person can survive up to 400 mg if he builds his tolerance up gradually. Still not a huge amount, but enough to surprise would-be assassins.
|3.1.07 @ 2:29PM|#
trans fats are also used to replace milk in baked goods, as
someone who is lactose intolerant I can only eat snacks with trans
fats and even then it's hard to find ones without milk.
Ding ding ding!
Now we can roll out the Magic Bullet of Discrimination, because
trans-fat bans discriminate againt the lactose-intolerant.
I can hardly wait for the nanny-stater's heads to start
exploding.
Larry A|3.1.07 @ 2:54PM|#
The story you're looking for is LIPIDLEGGIN' by F. Paul
Wilson.
Dang. Beat me to it. Hard to believe how futuristic that sounded
back in 1979.
Pat|3.1.07 @ 3:19PM|#
It just doesn't allow smoking among consenting adults who
are smoking among non-smoking adults who do not consent to being
exposed to second hand smoke while in restaurants or
bars.
They consented when they entered the private establishment.
|3.1.07 @ 8:40PM|#
Hot Doug's also serves a sausage (duck, I believe) topped with
foie gras. He proudly displays his warning from the city.
There are no two finer words in the English language than "encased
meats," my friend.
|3.1.07 @ 10:01PM|#
I'll defend to the death,...well ok, to at least a major
inconvenience, the right to purvey and consume trans fats. But
please note that there is strong evidence that:
INGESTING TRANS FATS IS HIDIOUS FOR YOUR
HEALTH!
Please, my beautiful libertarians (and joe too), don't buy any
products that say "partially hydrogenated oils" on the label. Also,
ask at restaurants if they use trans fats.
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