Katherine Mangu-Ward | June 17, 2008
I love the farmers' market. A victim of my own post-yuppie childless female demographic, I can't help but cherish a vision of myself in a summer dress, basket tucked in the crook of my elbow, sashaying between stalls of heirloom tomatoes, wildflowers, and artisanal pork products. In this fantasy it is 7:30 on a brilliantly sunny Sunday morning, and all the grizzled farmers and jolly butchers know me by name.
This is, of course, an absurd delusion. What really happens most weeks is that I sleep in, then pick up a shrink-wrapped bundle of green beans and an equally shrink-wrapped Tyson chicken at the Safeway.
While I weep for the lost aesthetic experience, I'm not worried about endangering my own virtue, my health, or the health of the planet if I'm a little hung over from Saturday night's festivities or if it happens to be raining when I wake up. Because there simply isn't anything like conclusive evidence that shopping at the farmers' market will save me (or the environment) from such heartaches.
I'm sure you've heard: Killer tomatoes are attacking America as we speak. The New York Times editorialized that we "should not have to wait until the next food scare before Washington comes to the rescue." The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is doggedly eliminating possible culprits state by state. But not all tomatoes are equally terrifying, the FDA has been careful to point out. Cherry or grape tomatoes are fine, as are homegrown tomatoes.
This last bit has the "eat local" crowd crowing. Locavore (word of the year 2007!) logic goes like this: Those big factory farms are awash in God knows what kind of creepy-crawlies. Tomatoes are picked in one place, washed in another, packed elsewhere, and shipped hundreds or even thousands of miles. Of course they're going to get dirty! Far better, say the locavores, to eat food that is grown within a small radius, say 100 miles of your home. Buy at farms and farmers markets. Get to know your local producers and only shop with the ones you trust. Grow your own! An appealing prospect, to be sure. But the gap between homegrown and farmer's market may be larger than the gap between farmer's market and supermarket.
"As a scientist, I cannot say smaller is better. It's just not that simple," Martha Robert, a microbiologist at the University of Florida Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences and a safety adviser to the Florida Tomato Growers Exchange, told Newsweek. "The large packers we have are extremely stringent with sanitizing techniques and measures to prevent cross-contamination, but if someone makes a mistake when they're mixing or dicing large quantities, the problem is going to be larger too," she explains. "But sometimes a small grower has been doing something for years, and [they] don't know they're putting themselves at risk."
Put another way, anyone who has ever been in one of New York's independent corner greengrocers, or an unaffiliated rural grocery store knows that small and local are no guarantee of higher hygiene standards. Some big operations are squeaky clean, others breed disease. Likewise with the little guys. As I write, the feds are fingering a couple of growers and maybe a restaurant chain as the culprits after clearing thousands of tomato producers.
Small can be beautiful, but it's no guarantee of better hygiene or virtue. Accidents happen. Sometimes pigs shit in inconvenient places or someone fails to wash his hands on little farms, too.
Because advocates of local eating conflate health and environmental issues on a regular basis, allow me to briefly do so as well. Much of the warm glow of farmers' market virtue comes from a growing concern about something called "food miles"—when a box of grape tomatoes has to travel hundreds of miles to get to your plate, surely the number of carbon-belching, petroleum-powered vehicles involved becomes unacceptable. So even if you still might end up calling Ralph on the big white phone thanks to some tainted tomatoes, at least you'll be able to tell him you weren't contributing to global warming, right?
Just in time for summer, a new study finds a serious hole in the food miles concept: In terms of total carbon output, what you eat matters a lot more than where it came from. Swapping out chicken for red meat every now and then can eliminate just as much carbon as eating entirely local. Going further still, several studies have come up with variations on this somewhat counterintuitive conclusion: shipping spring lamb on the slow boat from New Zealand may actually produce less carbon than hopping in the minivan for a family trip to pick up some locally-raised lamb shanks from the farmer outside of town, or a drive to the farmers' market.
Because I'm a late sleeper, I often manage to emerge, unshowered and basketless, just as they're shutting down the farmers' market in my neighborhood. The site is no longer a magical, vegetable version of Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory. It's just a parking lot with a burst glass container of fresh-from-the-cow (potentially unpasteurized) milk, a Port-a-Potty in the corner, and nowhere to wash your hands. The snarl of shoppers' cars and farmers' old diesel trucks that chokes the neighborhood on market days is just clearing up. The farmers' market is marvelous enough without all the trappings—while I'm sad that once again this week I won't befriend a jolly butcher, I remain unconcerned about my gastronomic virtue or the relative threats to my guts.
Katherine Mangu-Ward is a reason associate editor.
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In general, since locally grown food operations tend to be less efficient than the large, evil corporation operations, they probably cause more overall environmental harm (in terms of land occupied, waste disposed, and a few other things I can't think of off the top of my head) per calorie than supermarket foods.
But I thought we already knew how to defeat the Killer
Tomatoes?
Where's my album of Puberty Love?
Nephilium
E. Coli on your tomatoes? Wash them! Here's a big cluestick for
you fancy schmancy cosmotarian cityfolk: tomatoes grow in the
ground! That's "ground" as in dirt and mud and worms. Oh, and lots
of fecal matter from God's furry creatures. The world outside your
city walls is a dirty filthy place!
Here's the good news though: tomatoes are washable. They are round
and smooth and incredibly easy to wash. Spinach is washable too,
but not nearly as much as tomatoes.
It sounds like your local farmer's market sucks.
Vermont farmer's markets kick ass.
Look, I understand the general thrust of your analysis, and its
good intentions. You identify large producers with "capitalist
progress", and therefore become prickly whenever anyone criticizes
large producers. And that's all well and good, but the large
producers only exist in their current form because they are part of
a statist web of transportation policies, land-use policies, farm
subsidy policies, public-private marketing association policies,
trade policies, and public health policies. The large producers can
just as easily be seen as creatures of statism as they can be seen
as noble capitalist competitors.
I'll start feeling sympathy for those poor giant agribusiness
farmers set upon by meanie environmentalists and snobby slow food
enthusiasts when they give back all their subsidies and when their
regulatory advantages are taken away. If agriculture still trends
towards massive operations in that environment, I'll get on board
with your crusade in their favor. But until we see that, I'm
sitting this one out, because until we see that big growers /=
capitalist heroes, sorry.
By the way, one thing that libertarians should keep in mind when
discussing agriculture is this: what economic situation lends
itself better to statist regulation and intervention - a system
with a small number of giant firms with centralized and
standardized operations, or a huge number of small producers
operating diffusely and in ad-hoc arrangements? I think the steady
advance of statism in this field has been enhanced by the
centralization of food processing, because it makes total control
of the anal sort sought by food hygiene freaks seem within reach,
if the government will just try a little harder. In a chaotic
production environment, people would be more willing to realize the
stubborn truth that perfect food safety is not possible, and
therefore not something that can be regulated into existence.
economist: you should read The Omnivore's Dilemma. Certainly changed my views on "sustainable farming". I don't think everyone in favor of local foods is advocating a return to subsistence farming or is a neo-luddite; although those people certainly exist, there are plenty who recognize that modern technology combined with traditional agricultural cycle/crop+pasture rotation actually produce more, better-tasting food with less waste and without expensive, petroleum-derived fertilizers. An example of the problem with industrial farming techniques is that farmers using such techniques require government subsidies to remain "profitable"... all at the expense of the taxpayers, of course.
In this fantasy it is 7:30 on a brilliantly sunny Sunday
morning, and all the grizzled farmers and jolly butchers know me by
name.
There's your problem. Come Sunday morning all the good farmers are
in church. ;-)
Another problem with eating local is this thing called "seasons."
Come the end of winter you're picking through the stuff you've
stored in the basement trying to find something that isn't too
rotten to eat. After all, right after "locavore" comes "no
preservatives!"
After all, right after "locavore" comes "no
preservatives!"
Salt/pickling/fermentation, canning, and freezing are all natural
techniques that have been in use for a very long time. In fact,
freezing can be done very cheaply in the winter months if properly
configured.
But I agree with the sentiment that people who eat *only* local
foods are nuts: some of my favorite foods (mangoes and kiwis) don't
grow anywhere near where I live. That said, if I buy them, I should
bear the full cost of their production and delivery to me. It's
clear that's not happening, even at a place like Whole Foods.
You win J Sub. !!!!!!!!!!!!!
So right, Larry A. Trying eating local produce in St Paul about
January 12th. However, we can have some winter veggies where I live
but in the summer home grown are a huge water suck. Not that I care
about the water nannies, just sayin'
Speaking of those got dam water nannies. They're preaching the
gospel. Someday they'll admit that 80% of the available water in
the Golden State goes to the farmers and shut up about taking three
minute showers and watering the roses.
I found that the Farmer's Market fantasy in reality is more
fantasy than reality. The chance of getting fresh yummy (read:
edible) produce at a Farmer's Market isn't a whole lot better than
at the local grocery.
Case in point: Farmers Market in Napili Maui where half the stuff
being sold was bought at Costco the day before.
In the end, unless the seller is spooning or slicing off samples,
it is still a crapshoot as to the quality. When you win, it can be
a big win. But when you get rock hard peaches that rot before they
ripen, you feel a lot more pissed than if you bought them at Sam's
Club.
Brandybuck has it right on. Now pre-diced/sliced or anything
where the skin is compromised is a different story.
As for KMW's assertion that farmer's markets provide no cleaner and
no healthier of a product, well she is right. But dammit, modern
"supermarket variety" tomatoes (and most other veggies) are bred
for shipping hardiness and uniformity not flavor.
So, while Ms. Ward may have the convenience of buying her shrink
wrapped produce, the tomato that finally graces her plate will be a
pale vision of its potential glory and that is a shame. When you
can get tomatoes like
this or
this in your supermarket, then my argument becomes moot but
until then, growing your own or getting them from a specialty
farmer is still the best flavor option.
As others have mentioned the fact that you can get fresh tomatoes,
even ones that taste like styrofoam, in January is a big bonus to
mass market production and globalization. I just think that if
stuff grows in your area, while in season you should take advantage
of it.
In the end, unless the seller is spooning or slicing off
samples, it is still a crapshoot as to the quality.
Well, just like with anything else, caveat emptor: it is the
responsibility of the buyer to know what he or she is buying, a
rule that applies equally to the supermarket as to the farmer's
market.
In my experience in Boston, going to the farmer's markets just a
few times gave me a good idea of the quality of each vendor, which
now enables me to do better than the local Shaws, which has
uniformly bad quality throughout the produce section.
Brandybuck! Washable tomatoes? What WILL they think of next? Are
those things hybrids? Or some of those new Franken Foods?
Man, when I was a kid my Mama washed everything. It already looked
clean to me, but she washed it anyway.
Sorry to admit to eating a whole bunch of cherries the other day,
straight out of the bag sans water.
BTW, how come we can eat produce from Mexico today and not get
Montezuma's? We eat all kinda stuff comes from Mexico.
Well, just like with anything else, caveat emptor
Of course.
I was getting at the implication of the term Farmer's Market. Which
is that one can expect to buy good stuff that is healthier and
better tasting. It isn't that this is never true but that it is
frequently not true.
Course, I live in So Cal, where the choices are greater, even in
the Supers. Which, I've noticed have been making efforts to compete
with Whole Foods and the Farmer's Markets by carrying ever larger
stashes of fresh fruit and veggies at better and better
quality.
Been a while since I shopped out of state but the last time I was
in Virginia I was surprised at how slim the pickin's were for
veggies and fruit. Worse, the Safeway in Parker Az (in the middle
of Indian farming country) had one aisle of wilted produce covered
with fruit flies.
re: Brandybuck@12:52
The current tomato crisis involves salmonella, not e. coli. And
according to one source I read last week, there's some evidence
that the contamination might be inside the tomato, reducing washing
to a futile exercise.
Now if we had home irradiators, we could all enjoy safe
produce.
Farmer's Markets are usually total scams for fleecing the local
eviro-morons. However, I have two farms near me that sell produce
they grew themselves. The prices are cheap, and the produce is
fresh and often huge. Total win. However, in winter I still want
cilantro and tomatillos and mangoes and pineapples.
So let's just have both markets. What, we already do?
You identify large producers with "capitalist
progress"...noble capitalist competitors...poor giant agribusiness
farmers set upon by meanie environmentalists and snobby slow food
enthusiasts...your crusade in their favor...capitalist
heroes
I am not sure what article you read, but it sounds interesting.
Provide a link?
I'm with Fluffy, the farmer's markets in Vermont rock. They tend to be collections of representatives from the actual farms selling their own stuff. Probably not healthier or cleaner than the stuff from Costco (after all, it is still grown in dirt and cow manure) but lots fresher and better tasting.
Clearly Ms. Mangu-Ward doesn't (as she admits) spend much time
at the farmer's market. The locavores are a very small but
obnoxious minority. Most people seem to be there for the quality
and freshness factor. I'm not as concerned about the distance to
market as the time to market.
There's also the ripeness factor. Nothing you can buy at the
supermarket can compare to the fresh ripe strawberries at
the farmers market. Underripe food keeps much longer which is why
so much of the fruit at Safeway isn't worth eating.
Fluffy (with respect to your statements on industrial
farms),
While it is certainly true that government subsidies are quickening
the trend towards large, centralized agribusiness, it is mainly a
catalyst for a process taking place anyway. That is, while the
subsidies allow them to make more money for their crops and gives
them more incentive to enlarge their operations, this favors big
agribusiness in the first place because industrial farming is, in
general, more efficient. Note: I am still in favor of ending both
the subsidies and regulations that restrict farming activity. I
just don't think that if we got rid of them we would end domination
of agriculture by large companies.
squarooticus,
Doubtless farmers are discovering that some traditional methods can
improve crop yields. My point was simply that many "slow
food","localist", and "organic" proponents fail to see the forest
(the environmental impact if everyone suddenly went "local" or
"organic" due to greater land requirements) for the trees (the
environmental impact of transportation, pesticides, and
fertilizer).
Washing veggies is for wimpy city folk. ;o)
I grew up poor just outside of New Orleans and learned through
necessity that there ain't nothing better than tomatoes straight
off the plant. These days I can afford to shop at whatever high end
market I wish and I still till up a section of the backyard to grow
my own vegetables. I still eat them unwashed too.
I've had two totally opposite experiences in Farmer's Markets.
The one in Madison, WI was all local farmers selling their own
stuff, and it ruled. The best cheese I've ever had, ever, I'd get
there.
The one in Dallas had all kinds of people selling the same stuff
you'd get in the supermarkets. There were exceptions, but we'd go
during strawberry season and not find a single locally grown
strawberry.
I think that if one can find better quality at a local farmers
market, so be it. I think if you can find better quality at
Safeway, then so be it.
However, while fluffy makes some excellent counter points, the
point remains the same: the concept of locally grown "organic"
produce "saving the planet" is dubious.
And the problem is, most 'locavores' and 'food miles' adherents
literally cannot wrap their brains around the concept that 400,000
strawbeerries shipped from Venezuela might actually use (despite
the subsidies that fluffy speaks of) less real fuel per strawberry,
than the guy with the grey ponytail, driving his two bushels of
strawberries to the market from the nether regions of the county in
his quaint '56 pickup with the 'give peace a chance' bumper
sticker.
Yes, to give due to fluffy's points, calculating cost is difficult,
due to the fantastic maze of tarrifs, subsidies and state
intevention into the transportation, energy and fuel markets. But
one can calculate the amount of real fuel and carbon footprint
which will factor heavily into the cost.
The current tomato crisis involves salmonella, not e. coli. And according to one source I read last week, there's some evidence that the contamination might be inside the tomato, reducing washing to a futile exercise.
I'm currently on day 3 of a tomato-induced salmonella infection and
I could really use some help from Washington about now. Oh god, I
only have one roll of toilet paper left.
....we'd go during strawberry season and not find a single
locally grown strawberry.
I grew up in the strawberry capital of America and there were
strawberry stands all over the county. Mild winters and summers
made the OC perfect for truck farms and strawberries. Not many
grown there anymore and when you pick some up at the local
strawberry stand they are pretty much the same as any supermarket.
Picked too soon, still white on the inside. But boy, they're
big.
My kids have never tasted a really good strawberry so I planted
some this year. Imagine never having tasted a fully ripe strawberry
off the vine. Dam Shame!
I spent last summer hauling produce from California to Florida. A lot of it, berries, bagged salads, brocolli, etc, came outta the field already packed for transport. It goes into a vacuum and is cooled down to optimum temp in about 45 minutes. Now into my trailer and as a team we would be in central Florida in about 60 hours. By the next day, the company would ship it to the store for sale. So about 4 days from picking to the time you eat it. Not bad for something perishable, grown 3000 miles away
I am not sure what article you read, but it sounds
interesting. Provide a link?
Ethan, come on. This isn't your first day here.
Whenever Reason addresses agricultural issues, it's always to
snidely demonstrate disdain for small producers and their markets,
because all those folks are just tools of nasty deluded
environmentalists. There is an ongoing Tooheyesque campaign here at
Reason in favor of large producers and in favor of the current
mainstream system of food production.
I'm ascribing to that campaign the motive of seeing an essential
identity between the current mainstream system and "capitalism",
but I am extremely confident that when I do so I'm correct.
Ms. Mangu-Ward specifically goes out of her way here to defend
shrink-wrapped Tyson chicken bought at the Safeway. I merely want
to point out that Tyson Chicken, Safeway, and the entire culture
and economy in which Ms. Mangu-Ward's purchase takes place is
deeply rooted in statism. And that means that even if it's dirty
environmentalists and crunchy co-op types who hate Tyson Chicken
and Safeway, you can't just say "Well, anything those
people hate must be capitalism, so I better defend Tyson and
Safeway because that's the Reason way."
I shouldn't have to tell anyone here that when Ms. Mangu-Ward gets
in her car in the morning and drives to a Safeway in Falls
Church, for example, that about just about every aspect of 20th
century statism has contributed to that action, starting with the
muckrakers and progressives, continuing on through the New Deal,
motoring on through with the Robert Moses types of the 50's, and so
on and so on.
I am not taking any position on whether local or organic produce is
better for anyone's health or for the planet and on some level I
honestly don't give a damn either way. I just want to speak up in
every Reason thread that seeks to defend Big Agriculture to point
out that they're defending an artificial and social-engineered
creation when they do that, and not the market. And I'm telling
you, Reason absolutely thinks they're defending the market, whether
I can link to those exact words in this article or not.
Those bizarrely-shaped, softball-sized reddish things they sell as strawberries at the supermarket scare the hell out of me.
I'm with joe on that one.
Best strawberries I ever had came from my neighbor's pick-your-own
in Wisconsin, and they bore no resemblance to what's sold as
"strawberries" these days.
Sigh. Can we just set up a common comment area for each of these perennial contentious subjects so we can have each debate once?
Not only that, RC, but they taste like...well...they don't actually taste like anything, do they?
Fluff, isn't Tyson the folks who dumped all their chicken shit
into the Arkansas river while Governor Clinton didn't seem to
notice?
And, I see your point(s). Tend to agree.
Brah Ben, interesting (actually quite interesting) and that phenom
is why we get bananas in NYC in January.
1) Ominvore's Dilemma-Michael Pollan, I second the above
recommendation. An excellent and informative read!
2) Farmers markets in the Pacific NW are outstanding! I can get
several things fresh. Awesome cheese, fresh ciders, berries,
greens, you name it! And living in a FOODIE town, I can get the
best quality groceries available. In many instances the farmers
market is better. Foraged mushrooms, morel's in this case, are 10
bucks a pound at the FM. 40 at the grocery store, and they've been
sitting in shit the whole day. Another example, grass fed vs. corn
fed beef! My wife and I did a blinded test, and had a friend blind
us to the wrapping. We both picked the grass fed as our choice once
it was all cooked, and unblinded. The texture wasn't as greasy, and
the flavors were more intense.
I shop at both places, and look for quality ingredients. Period! In
many cases, the Farmer's Market CRUSHES the top shelf grocery
store, in a number of areas. But we cook a lot, and a variety of
types of food, which means food from South America is on the dinner
table, and New Zealand lamb, and French Cheeses, Austrian Gruner
Veltliner's etc.
The farm subsidies are criminal, and the crops (i.e the MUTANT
Strawberries that taste like a Starburst) are also crummy for many
of the "free market" reasons cited above.
What I don't understand is why some of those arguing for large
farms, aren't arguing for the "BEST PRODUCT". In a "free market"
the best product will win. The problem is, many American's eat
about 5 different meals a week, and repeat week after week. Our
palette's have become NUMB to quality. Laziness, and a cavalier
attitude about what we eat, and how we eat, is the primary reason
we've got a nation of obese citizens!
[And it is a myth that it costs more to eat well, you just have to
prioritize and plan correctly!]
As a kid I used to eat fruit right off the tree, bush and ground. Wipe the dirt and manure off the strawberries and munch away. Nothing better than eating watermelon out in the middle of the watermelon patch. Yes, I had a few bouts of the hershy-squirts, but when you live with germs you build a resistance to them. Food poisoning was from badly canned tomatoes stuck in the cellar for five years, not tomatoes off the vine.
As a kid I used to eat fruit right off the tree, bush and
ground.
Wipe the dirt and manure off the strawberries and munch
away.
You wiped the dirt off? Sissy.
new world dan gets it exactly right: it's about quality. i buy
my produce from farmers direct and from farmers' markets where
possible not because of some rousseau-ian illusion or the locavore
bullshit, but because tomatoes taste like tomatoes, strawberries
taste like strawberries, peppers aren't bland cardboard. and it is
absolutely impossible to get real corn otherwise.
as for farmers' markets in dallas, well, that's your punishment
(among many) for living in dallas.
But Tyson's chicken is nasty! You know it's so contaminated,
they swirl the meat around in bleach before they pack it? It's
true. Also, factory farming produces giant lagoons of animal waste
-- in Iowa, the floods have liberated these lagoons to flow through
towns and downstream, where they'll poison the Gulf of
Mexico.
I like your article, but it would be better if you discussed the
GHG, land-use, and sanitary aspects of food production separately,
rather than playing them off against each other. Just because the
issue is complicated is no reason to treat environmentalists, or
your readers, like morons.
as for farmers' markets in dallas, well, that's your
punishment (among many) for living in dallas.
Do you even need to ask if I still live there?
Also, factory farming produces giant lagoons of animal
waste
I doubt a factory-farmed cow produces more shit than an
family-farmed cow. The question is, what happens to that
shit?
it would be better if you discussed the GHG, land-use, and
sanitary aspects of food production separately.
The key, of coure, is to focus on the "externalities" of food
production per calorie produced, not on aesthetic values. Anecdote:
The family farmers near my Wisconsin place gave their cows open
access to waterways, for example, which they crapped in and
generally tore the hell out of. Back in the day, those creeks held
trout, but not any more. I doubt factory-farming those milk cows
would have been nearly as hard on the local watershed.
Those bizarrely-shaped, softball-sized reddish things they
sell as strawberries at the supermarket scare the hell out of
me.
Nothin' scary about 'em. They just don't "burst" with flavor, to
say the least.
"The question is, what happens to that shit?"
on a family farm, everything useful gets used. they have crops that
need to be fertilized. but an industrial cow "farm" (?) is an
instance of mono-culture. they just do cows so there are no crops
to fertilize so the shit is just waste. read pollan.
I don't think everyone in favor of local foods is advocating
a return to subsistence farming or is a neo-luddite;
You have not been yet in Santa Cruz, CA... Everyone here is a
neo-luddite of one sort or another, and equally obnoxious.
By the way, Lou Dobbs already figured out that the culprits for the
Salmonella outbreak are Mexican tomatoes... Because, like, everyone
knows Mexicans are dirty and take "our" jobs...
on a family farm, everything useful gets used.
You've never really been on a family farm, have you? I have. At
best, the manure gets spread on a field, where, depending on the
field, some of it will run off into the nearest watershed. At
worst, it just sort of, piles up. They were having real problems in
the area of Wisconsin where I lived with contaminated groundwater,
and there was nothing but family farms for miles.
no crops to fertilize so the shit is just waste
It's all sold off for fertilizer of one kind or another. No
waste.
The South Carolina Farmer's Market (Columbia) has been surpassed in quality, selection, and freshness by the farmers (many Mexican-American) at US1/Red Barn Flea Markets.
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