San Francisco's famed Forage Underground Market will shut down later this month. But the tracks laid by its founder Iso Rabins--and others around the country--mean that the choice to make and sell many foods locally is increasingly returning to small entrepreneurs. Though the Underground Market will soon—to use the language of regulators—cease and desist, Rabins’s creation, writes Baylen Linnekin, will be remembered as part of the leading edge of a larger trend.

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