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“In a small little way,” Daguin says, “I hope it’s paving the way to more freedom.”
It is. She is. While groups like the New York State Restaurant Association have rightly challenged New York City bans in court, Daguin brings together the people who love to buy, sell, cook, and eat great food.
At best, it’s a budding movement. At worst, it’s still a lot of fun. And if nothing else, Daguin has again reminded her allies and foes alike that D’Artagnan is willing to occupy the bastion simply to ensure the continued promise of a good meal.
Full disclosure: After writing a few thousand kind words about foie gras in a magazine piece last year, the nice folks at D’Artagnan first sent me an enthusiastic email, and followed that up by sending me the occasional free shipment of foie gras and other foods. I happily devour each one.